17th November TheBatik Workshop. I found it frustrating at times. The technique of applying the wax was really difficult to control. But painting the inks on was great. And the finished picture was fabulous. The workshop was from 9.30 – 3.30 with lunch. They were a Balinese family and the son was a superb craftsman. I had two swims yesterday which helps my aching body after sitting on a low stool at the workshop.
19th November – Just back from Balinese dancing in Ubud Palace. Superb. Really enjoyed it. Todays trip to the rice fields was much better than the other day- no thunder and lightning and no wayward wandering. We went a different way through more of a tropical forest. The greens are amazing. The diversity of lush huge leafy plants and trees is stunning. The gorge was very deep and not touched by farming or tourism. Still had to avoid the scooters on part of the path. I hate them. We spent a couple of hours at a cafe with a view of the fields drawing. I didn’t do the workshop so just painted and drew. I’m only pleased with one drawing but that’s ok. Felt good to be in one place drawing for once. There were a few yoga teacher training places along the way- big draw here.
On the walk back we stopped off in the large temple and had to rent the obligatory sarongs and sashes, which was fun being dressed by a man. A lot of the carving is garish and cartoonish but interesting until I found out that most of it is concrete not stone and only 5 years old! So many people trying to sell you stuff and a few begging women- I don’t like that. I’m glad we’re moving to the mountains tomorrow.
Bali is interesting but not very clean and everyone wants to sell you stuff. Too many scooters and traffic in the towns for me. I expected something different but I am enjoying part of the holiday. It’s quite an adventure. We’re staying on the foothills of a volcano for 3 nights in rather basic accommodation. The drawing is good fun and we watched traditional Balinese dancing last night which was superb. Also the rice fields are beautiful too. I’m hoping to sleep tonight and get up early enough to have a swim before leaving at 9.30am. We’ve a 3 hour drive punctuated by a stop at a water temple and a market. I’ve a blister between my toes which is awful but I’ve put a plaster on it and fingers crossed it will be ok until I’ve climbed the volcano on Monday!
21st Nov
New hotel is not great. It’s near Bangli and Mt Batur.They did not have enough rooms for us so 2 rooms were across a busy road in another place in a tomato farm. Bathroom archaic and wiring not good. Slept with light on at first and got4hours sleep. Knackered.
Hotel owner not good. The tomato farmer talked to us this morning and is lovely and genuine. Pretty little garden that the workers walk through with tomatoes in the bucket on their heads past my room.
In Amed now Today we are sitting by the lake drawing and having lunch in a simple restaurant. Grilled lake fish over charcoal fire. Drawing the mountain range reminds me of our mountain in Brecon – Dinas ridge? It’s all in The experience. Beautiful lake changing with the light.
Amed hotel better but still seen better days. A few large ants for company. Comfy bed. Quite away from the centre. Nice meal last night- dory. Aching calves from volcano trek. Craving a bit of real luxury. By the sea so swimming everyday will help and also there is a small pool. Had almost 6 hours continuous sleep for first time so might feel more positive today.
Very humid so a/c on although not strong at least it works. Rosemarie has been I’ll for 2 days with diarrhoea. We think it was washing her teeth with the water. I’m using bottled water religiously. Nothing is very clean here.
24th November
Had a terrible swim in the too stony beach in front of the hotel but later after drawing in the breakfast room with the sound of the sea we went to the next beach 2 km away and had a lovely swim there. The sea was salty and clear and we watched shoals of fish leaping and chasing in the sea. The sand is black and coarse- not very nice but better than stones. Wherever we go someone pops us trying to get us to go on a boat or have a massage on the beach. The poverty and squalor is still upsetting at times. There are many places that have not survived Covid. But there are a few posher hotels along the coast.
Sunday
Three of us set off to walk to see the Japanese shipwreck about 4 km away. Not far but very up and down through two very small villages. Very poor, litter written, desperate for tourists. We saw women and men sorting the day’s catch of fish on their haunches working together packing them into iced polystyrene boxes ready to go to the bigger town. Children running about barefoot in the dirt. Dogs coming up to us sometimes barking but some indifferent. A few pathetic looking little shops a few street stalls selling fruit or rice/noodles. Everyone smiled at us, a few children waved. The temperature was 29 degrees at 9 am. We dropped as we walked. Stopped for a ginger tea at a small warung/ simple cafe. Got to the beach and one man tried to tell us we had to pay to see the wreck. We didn’t. We found a man with one tooth, who had snorkels to rent and we arranged a boat to take Martin and Maria back later 200 rupiah and a taxi for me ( his son) 80 rupiah after negotiating. We found the wreck and swam out to it, it was wonderful. Much more colourful coral reef and the fish were amazing. I hadn’t expected it to be so interesting as it was so close to the shore. The seabed took a really deep drop so I was well out of my depth but fascinated. It is a Japanese patrol boat from the Second World War.
26th November My 68th birthday
I’ve just arrived back at 21.48 from a wonderful meal at a nearby hotel. It is run by a Dutchman and was pristine. We met him. The menu was interesting and across western Indonesian and Balinese cuisine. The staff were lovely. Unknown to me Martyn and Maria booked it and we had cocktails then lovely food- I had giant prawns and veg and potatoes ( no rice for a change) and a sweet chilli sauce. Then they brought out a cake which had been prearranged saying Happy Birthday Mrs Val. Staff were delightful. A couple of bottles of white wine and some had beers- it’s the most we’ve drank all night. Luckily it was only 3 mins from our hotel. We all had a great night .
My birthday has been wonderful. Being with 5 strangers has its pluses and minuses. I miss the boys and the grandkids today as well as mum. I had a swim at 6.30am with one of our group in the pool then a walk on the stony black beach, paddling on the way back. On my return one of the group had placed frangipani flowers on my balcony wall and table. When I walked down to breakfast the maids ( all men) and breakfast staff met me on the path and sang to me.
We spent the morning drawing and painting by the sea listening to the waves. I had to be in the shade as it’s 29 degrees and very humid. Surprisingly there is very little sea breeze. I was pleased with my drawings. After lunch in the restaurant next door I went to my room for a lie down in the cool a/c as I was overheating.
A memorable 68th birthday.
Tuesday
Left Amed after my morning swim. The staff were really nice there. 2.5 hrs bumpy journey in a minibus but through interesting scenery of rice fields and the sea and very busy. Once back in our lovely hotel we went for an explore to a new street we’d driven down on the way in that looked interesting and it was. Some really good shops not aimed at tourists. Had a cocktail and then back for a swim before dinner. I’ve e had the runs for a few nights but not much in the day and no pain, but during dinner I had both so I came home early and took some Imodium. I need it settled by Thursday afternoon. Tomorrow 3 of us are doing a silver jewellery workshop so hope I’m better. Rest of day is free to relax around the pool.
I’m getting tired now of the humidity but I’ve had a good day today.
I loved the silver workshop and although it was difficult at times I made two rings one with a Carnelian stone like Grans stone in my necklace even though I only realised after it was made. It was a perfect last day.
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